Posts Tagged ‘2010 weather’

Winemaker video: 2010 vintage harvest report, Alexander and Russian River valleys

by on November 4, 2010

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It’s easy to generalize a vintage as classic or mediocre. Or as winemakers like to say, “challenging.” My definition of the 2010 vintage? Well, it was the best of times and the worst of times.

Defined by intense flavors, the range of fruit quality varied tremendously from appellation, block, varietal and time of harvest. Specific sites delivered unbelievable character whereas others–separated by less than a mile–are actually still hanging out there today, struggling for a modicum of mature flavor. The overall quality of 2010 cannot be painted in the broad strokes often employed by the media. The window of opportunity for greatness in 2010 might have been small, but we found it.

In my 35 years as winemaker at Jordan, I’ve never seen fruit quality this good. The flavors in our Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot are complex and intense, offering tannin content that is so beautifully balanced. The fruit we harvested from Alexander Valley may be the best grapes I have seen in my career. The late spring and generally cool summer resulted in much of the crop coming in at lower than usual sugar content; this year, it is Mother Nature rather than the winemaker who will fashion the wines to be lower in alcohol. It’s refreshing to see the pendulum swinging back our way, whether at the hand of the winemaker or Mother Nature.

A brief recap of harvest dates:

My 35th harvest began September 17, when we picked one lot of Russian River Valley Chardonnay grapes. Then we waited (impatiently) until September 29, when Russian River Valley’s harvest kicked into high gear after a weekend heat spike. Grapes arrived at the winery with our optimal sugar levels of 23.5-24.5 Brix. Our team worked diligently on the sorting table to remove any berries affected by the recent heat. I always purchase more grapes than we need to ensure only the top lots are bottled as Jordan Chardonnay, so we finished the year with our average tons harvested despite roughly 20 percent of grapes lost due to sunburn. The final selected grapes had intense fruit flavors and bright acids due to the long, cool growing season.

Harvest of our red grapes commenced October 4 with Jordan estate Merlot.  Again, grapes arrived with complex, fully developed tannins and fruit flavors at our optimal sugar levels of 23.5-24.5 Brix, which is ideal for our balanced house style. Estate Petit Verdot followed on October 11-12, before the Cabernet Sauvignon lots began arriving from our favorite growers in Alexander Valley.  Our final lot of Cabernet Sauvignon destined for Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon arrived at the crushpad just before the rain began to fall October 22. Our continued focus on sourcing fruit in ideal locations for Cabernet proved extremely valuable this year, as fruit maturation was reached well ahead of other vineyard locations.  Across the spectrum, fruit and tannin maturity was ideal for our style. Having all the fruit crushed and fermenting in our tanks before the big rain storm was very comforting. It was a race against the clock that pretty much coincided with the San Francisco Giants winning the National League Championship Series. As a life-long Giants’ fan, I couldn’t be happier with the outcome of 2010 on so many levels. What can I say?  2010 proved to be a “World” class year.  In the words of Mike Krukow, “epic joy.”

Vineyard video: Sunday’s rain + wind machines

by on September 20, 2010

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Weather forecasters reported that a storm would roll through Sonoma County wine country last weekend. Needless to say, we were concerned — but we were also prepared. Working in vineyards where nature and nurture go hand in hand requires constant attention and adaptability.

Thankfully, the storm broke up as it came inland, and the rainfall totals were MUCH less than predicted (only 0.07 inch fell in Alexander Valley). The weather today – warm temperatures around 80 degrees and sunny with a slight wind — has been perfect for drying out the vines and the soils and for keeping us on track with grape ripening. We did run the wind machines this morning (see above video) to dry out the vines a bit (both the clusters and the canopy had some moisture). If we have mornings with heavy fog and drizzle, we’ll continue to run the machines until the fog breaks. Winemaker Rob Davis estimates harvest to be in full swing in our Russian River Valley vineyards in 10-14 days. (One lot of grapes was harvested on September 17 to commence our 35th harvest.)

Mother Nature is keeping us on our toes, as always. The vineyards are still looking really good.

Video: cool weather, grape veraison and thinning fruit before harvest

by on August 24, 2010

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In last week’s video on leaf pulling, we mentioned that summer temperatures in Northern Sonoma County have been 10-20 degrees below normal. Veraison, when the green grapes change color and increase their sugar levels, started the first week in August. As a rule of thumb, harvest begins roughly six weeks after 100 percent veraison.

What does this mean in terms of the 2010 vintage? If you read some of the wine industry discussions, you probably think this year’s weather has been a big thorn in the side of every winegrower.

Hardly.

There is a lot of confusing information out there about cool weather and its influence on harvest. It’s important to keep in mind the following: First, heat does not ripen fruit. Solar radiation is what makes photosynthesis occur in grapes. (Grapevines convert carbon dioxide into sugars using the energy from sunlight during photosynthesis.) Also, photosynthesis slows around 90 degrees and shuts down after 95, protecting the plant from loss of water. Lastly, moderate temperatures in a growing season define classical vintages. This type of weather yields grapes with color, tannin and fruit concentration that are fully mature without excessive sugar levels.

But our current cool summer has led to a lack of early morning solar radiation, and the cool evening temperatures have slowed the relocation of saccharides (carbohydrates or sugars) in the plants that develop during photosynthesis. If this cooling trend continues post-veraison, our harvest dates will be later than recent vintages. It is, however, quite common for Alexander Valley to be bathed in fog up to 10 a.m., and those same weather patterns existed in our region 30 years ago. With harvest anticipated to begin 2-3 weeks later than last year, we need more moderately warm days without cold nights so the grapes continue their ripening under these almost ideal conditions.

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Veraison thinning (discussed in the above iPhone 4 video) is a critical practice every year for us. Two weeks ago, we began removing grape clusters at veraison on 100 percent of our estate vineyard blocks, dropping many clusters to the ground. (And our resident birds, rabbits and turkeys can’t enjoy them because they are still too acidic!) Though we had ideal spring weather conditions in 2010 — rapid bloom and very even fruit set — we still need to make sure every year that the vines are focused on the ripening the best grapes — and the right quantity of grapes. If there are too many grape clusters on a vine, the vine won’t be able to focus on ripening them fully. Cool temperatures are giving the grapes ample time to develop flavors, so 2010 could be a classic vintage.

If the fruit continues to ripen slowly and consistently, we can be picking grapes at a lower Brix, or sugar levels, rather than needing to drive the sugars higher to get flavor. Winemaker Rob Davis and I are very excited about this. The bottom line is that although this growing season is one of our cooler years (mildew pressures have been high all season), the possibility for producing a great wine this year is very high. Our first harvest in 1976 didn’t start until October 13; in 1977, we started picking on October 5, and in 1978, we started the last week of Sept. Unlike 2010, those were all draught years. And classics.

Rainy, warm spring affects shoot thinning: video

by on June 10, 2010

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Watch the suckering process in this video to learn why shoot thinning is so important to making quality wine.

The three most important vineyard management steps in the annual lifecycle of a grapevine are pruning in the winter, suckering (also known as shoot thinning) in the spring, and of course, harvest in the fall. The ongoing rainfall and warm temperatures this spring have made suckering quite a challenge: The moisture is making the vines grow more canopy than we desire. Our vineyard team usually makes one pass through the vineyards to remove unwanted shoots by hand, but this season, the vines required two shoot-thinning passes in order to redirect the vine’s energy toward less shoots and thus less clusters of grapes to concentrate flavors. Shoot thinning is also the first step in allowing filtered light to penetrate the inside of the canopy, assisting with flavor development during ripening. This task also allows for better air movement within the cluster microclimate—a natural remedy for fungal diseases, such as botryis and powdery mildew.

Springtime snow on the mountains

by on April 2, 2010

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An interesting cold front lingered over the Alexander Valley and its vineyards earlier this week. Geyser Peak (3,455 feet elevation) and the surrounding mountains were dusted with snow, high above the vineyards on the valley floor–most of which recently underwent budbreak. We were a little nervous about the buds being harmed by frosts, but luckily the air temperature in our vineyards hovered around 36-38 degrees, protected from the cold higher-elevation air by a thick fog layer. Our vineyard team is on high alert for potential cold fronts this time of the year, using electronic frost alarms that signal when potential threats arise. After the cloud cover disappeared, we turned on the wind machines last night when the temperature dipped to 35 degrees.

A winter growing season update from our organic garden

by on January 15, 2010

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The mild winters of Alexander Valley mean our organic gardens continue to afford us a weekly bounty of vegetables to inspire dishes for our guests. In this video, I discuss what’s growing this month in our garden behind the winery, as well as the early ripening witnessed this season, which may be attributed to El Niño climate patterns.